As I inched towards the end of my nomadic journey, I felt all the more compelled to make my dream trip to finally happen. To me, backpacking in India is the rite of passage to becoming a true world traveler. I long desired to step into this land of contrasts and experience its magic with all my senses. And it finally came true(-ish).
I’d like to say that I was pressed for time and also didn’t want my mom to worry about my solo trip, but the truth is, I simply wussed out — that’s my reason for getting a packaged tour to Rajasthan. Yes, I cheated and didn’t backpack. Luckily, I didn’t have to stick to the company’s itinerary, and I had the freedom to tweak the schedule as I liked. And that, I did.
My 2-week trip to the Golden Triangle and Rajasthan was really packed and included New Delhi-Agra-Jaipur-Bikaner-Jaisalmer-Jodhpur-Udaipur, with at least 3 sites in each city. But I’m only going to share highlights and favorites. I’ll keep the trivia to a minimum so you can find the rest out for yourselves when you visit these places.
1. Qutub Complex (New Delhi)
Known for the famous Qutub Minar, the tallest brick tower in the world, this complex boasts a number of buildings and monuments with Indo-Islamic Afghan architecture. But what fascinated me most were the stones used to build the earliest structures, which were from demolished Hindu-Jain temples.
2. Taj Mahal (Agra)
I don’t think this needs any further explanation. Not visiting the Taj Mahal while in Agra is like skipping the Eiffel Tower when in Paris.
3. Amber Fort (Jaipur)
Amber Fort and its walls; Panna Meena ka Kund stepwell
I visited a total of five forts in this trip, and it started to look all the same. Don’t get me wrong, they are all spectacular and impressive, but visiting one right after the other made it difficult to take every detail in. But one thing stood out was the Hall of Mirrors in Amber Fort. You can also make a stop at Panna Meena ka Kund, a stepwell, on the way to the fort. (PS people aren't allowed to do down the stepwell)
4. Hawa Mahal and Nearby Bazars (Jaipur)
To be honest, there's not much to do in Hawa Mahal other than to just look at it and take a photo. I did most of my shopping in Jaipur, specifically in the area near Sanganeri gate. It wasn’t crowded at all when I was there, and it was easy to navigate because the stores are all numbered. The shops in front of the Hawa Mahal are also good, but abit more expensive. There’s a wide array of juti shoes, peacock skirts, tapestries, and jhumka earrings. Sadly, I didn’t find any of the scarf dresses that I love so much, maybe in Goa.
5. Pritam Niwas Chowk (Jaipur)
Clearly, I ran out of pose ideas for the last doorway
This “Courtyard of the Beloved” is within the City Palace complex. I got the cheaper ticket that only has access to this courtyard and the museum, I wasn’t willing to shell out around $60 for the full ticket to see the palace. Pritam Niwas Chowk has four beautiful doorways inspired by the four seasons. After taking your photos, you can stare at and admire the intricacy of these works of art. I also recommend going to Jantar Mantar which is just next door to appreciate the brilliance of the monarch Jai Singh II, founder of Jaipur.
6. Old Bikaner
I don’t recommend going out of your way to come to Bikaner, but if you find yourself in this city, do check out Old Bikaner. It is a small area that houses these opulent Havelis (mansions), which are now all unused and abandoned. What once was a flourishing town along the trade routes of the silk road is now just the opposite. This place really struck a chord and made me wonder if India is ever going to be the same again.
7. Jaisalmer
View of Jaisalmer from the fort; Old havelis made of yellow sandstone; handpainted Ganesha wall art which is actually a wedding invite. You can see these around the city
Jaisalmer was definitely my favorite part of the trip. For such a small town, it is really overflowing with magic. I enjoyed very much exploring the markets by myself, and the fort with my guide. Jaisalmer fort is the only living fort in India, meaning people still live within the walls. The alleys are very Arabian nights-esque. Everything is golden because they build with yellow sandstone. Thinking about it makes me feel giddy again.
8. Camel ride in the Thar Desert (Jaisalmer)
It's windy and I don't know what to do with my headscarf
For ethical reasons, I don’t usually support tourism that involves animals but I just couldn’t resist riding a camel. A Dromedary camel can carry 100kg for 60km. To be fair, I would also carry my camel if I can and if he wanted me to. For this tourist trap activity, make sure to clarify with your guide what’s included in your ride, and how far you will go. Mine just dropped me off in the middle of nowhere. But no problem, I got to make new friends and be away from the the other tourists.
9. Glamping in the desert (Jaisalmer)
Sorry about the vertical video, I never intended to blog about this trip.
How often would I get the chance to camp in a desert? I’m not a big fan of fancy-style tourism, and like getting dirty. I’d really much rather sleep under the stars if this glamping room wasn’t included in my package. But I was lucky I didn’t get it my way, as we had a big thunderstorm/sandstorm in the middle of the night and had to get evacuated for a while. But I was really thrilled and was smiling from ear to ear while we rushed to a more solid shelter. They said it’s the first time it ever happened. I live for such experiences!
10. Udaipur Palace
Udaipur feels like a breath of fresh air. The city just feels much lighter, because it is higher, has more nature, and has the lakes. I really appreciated that the palace is still so intact, and the royal family still lives there. Another interesting thing about Udaipur is that historically, it didn’t yield under the Mughal Empire, and was also not disturbed by the British. It really is such a special place.
Why Rajasthan
I enjoy all kinds of travels, but I am most attracted to vibrant and rich cultures. I’ve always known this is the first region I want to visit when I come to India, I was just simply drawn to it and wanted to learn more about the colorful history, monarchs, and architecture.
What I Enjoyed
Rajasthan was a complete a visual feast. The colors, patterns, textures were all overwhelmingly delightful as expected. And the people were so warm. I especially love the Rajasthani men and their mustaches. They all happily posed for a snap when I showed my appreciation.
Also, I had the best driver companion with me throughout my 2week journey. Bajrang was timid but took good care of me, and gave in to all my requests, like helping me find a specific stall for a special samosa, and also rescuing me from scammers in the middle of the desert.
Bajrang, my favorite driver; One of the guides I actually did like, but I forgot his name.
What I Didn’t Enjoy
Traveling through India with a driver in a sterile white sedan just felt so inauthentic to me. I yearned to have a more immersive experience and connect more with the locals. I was lucky not to have any tummy problems or safety issues, but I will definitely not go with a packaged tour the next time I come back.
Also, the tipping system took away from just enjoying the sites. I was constantly worried about how much money I should give to the guides, as they sometimes make it known and felt that it is all just a business to them. I also didn't like when they try to take you to souvenir shops they can take commissions from, I always had to say that I wasn't interested.
Tips
Get Trabug if you want to stay connected and use data while traveling
Always drink bottled distilled water
Bring a straw hat and a shawl to protect you from the sun and also cover you up
They say you either love India or hate it. Other say that INDIA stands for “I’ll never do it again.” After this first visit, I can say that I definitely love India, and I’ll definitely do it again. I hope you would, too!
Xx Nikki
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